Horse Facts Guide |

im doing a project and i need info, but all i can find is info that wont help me (e.g. disease in a horses eye ect.). i need info on how the eye works and a diagram of the eye, and a bit more info.
thank you

www.google.com

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Heya im looking for a web that has lots of info on horses do you know of any
thanks hope you can answer
X

Anglefire.com
and also look up under different breeds assoc, they give you rules what that breed should look like etc

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When I search for info in the web, but there are mostly ads on horses. Please, please, if you know some info about colts, tell me!

Colts are young male horses under the age of four. When it grows up, a colt will either become a gelding (castrated) or a stallion (not castrated). Colts are often capable of reproducing at only 18 months, but usually won’t until at least 3 years. Even at this age, a horse’s skeleton has not fully developed, and it can still be considered a colt.

In the wild, young colts are driven from their herd at age 1 or 2. Much like wolves, young males will typically leave their home group and start their own herd when they are old enough.

Aside from that, there’s not too much more to tell. You’d be likely to find more general information on horses than specific info on colts.

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A friend of mine called the other day from Los Angeles and said she wanted to set up a phone consultation for her dog.  I said “you don’t need to”.  She said “why not?”  I said “because I already know what is going on.”  (Not that I’m that psychic mind you – but as an Animal Communicator I’ve seen this a million times).  I continued “you’re calling me because your dog is depressed.”  She agreed.  “She came to you depressed and fearful and you are depressed at times so the two of you are a great mirror and commiserate when you’re depressed.  When you’re not depressed, you spend the rest of the time feeling sorry for her past.  Therefore, you are falling into what I call default behavior.”  I told her to call me in a few days if she still wanted a session.  

 

We all fall into default behavior.  We don’t allow the moment to exist.  I explained to my friend that at that point, that dog was lucky.  In Horse facts Guide Amazon’;return true;” onmouseout=”self.status=””>fact, it had been lucky for all the years they were together.  It no longer had the sad circumstances it had before and in fact, she had a great life.  The dog had a kid and a cat to look after, my friend loves her – it doesn’t get any better. 

 

When I saw her in person weeks later I asked about the dog.   She said the switch was overnight.  Once she acknowledged that this was a great life NOW, the dog could enjoy life.

 

Not everything is that quick, but really it could be.  When we default into certain feelings, we allow the animal to ‘get away’ with certain behavior that is not serving the harmony of the household.  If we continue to feel sorry for someone or stay hurt by something, we are not allowing them to be all that they can be. 

 

This is not to say that we need to be in denial, it’s the opposite.  By staying in the past feelings, we are actually denying them the present (and who is better than the present than animals?!)  Sometimes you already know the painful circumstances that the entire household is clinging to.  And if you don’t, it’s a good time to call in an Animal Communicator.  But meanwhile, acknowledging the circumstances is important, but also acknowledging how great things are NOW is vital.  They don’t have to stay in feelings.  Feelings are like waves at the ocean, they come and go.  (We all tend to forget the go part.)  Sometimes giving it a date to let it go – like we can all feel badly about this until next Friday is a great way – you all might get bored by Tuesday and be on with the day.

 

The following are typical examples of things WE ALL DO:

 

1. Feeling guilty about going out of town or being away all day.

 

If guilt was measured in dollar amounts and put into a bank account, it could give the Vatican a run for its money.  And there’s no place better than to do this with our animals!!  There are lots of ways around this.  First of all, you have to do what you have to do (as in j.o.b.) in order to afford this dog/cat/bird/goldfish/horse the life of luxury he/she gets to lead.  Secondly, you can say everything with a positive tone.  “I will be home at 4:00 and we get to go on a walk.”  While you are away, replace the guilt with the feeling of looking forward to connecting with your friend.  Believe it or not they pick up on stuff when we are away and what would you rather send, something good or bad?  Make your vacations a vacation for them, they get to eat all that stuff I would never feed you with the housesitter, etc.  It’s fun, all fun, they respond to an uplifted spirit. 

 

1.  Feeling guilty about adding a baby or another pet to the household.

 

Life is life.  While your dog/cat/bird/goldfish/horse may have been the baby before and a real live baby is coming into the home, you may want to include them – that you need their help – employ them.  They can always use an extra job.  They can be in charge of the safety or training of the new animal….etc.  By feeling guilty, you are setting up room for them to be resentful and act out.

 

1. Feeling sad about an animal’s past.

 

Here’s a big one.  Again, the example at the top is truly how quickly we can help them let it go.  If that doesn’t do it, as I said, let them download with an Animal Communicator.  Sometimes just getting their story “off their chest” so to speak allows freedom.  In addition, having it released from their muscle memory by a canine massage therapist, a cranial sacral practitioner, acupuncture and/or chiropractic, may be the best money spent.  Sometimes bad memories are stored in their bodies and it is our job to help them find the therapy to get it out.  Also the word “rescue” has such a negative, sad, forlorn vibration to it.  If you were to close your eyes and think of the word rescue, it automatically brings up unwanted feelings, quite literally.  So start referring to the day that you adopted your friend as the “lucky day”.  Encourage people that are in the rescue world to start finding other words like “sanctuary”.  Nothing leads to bad behavior faster than the word rescue.  We feel sorry for them and let them get away with things we wouldn’t let a kid do.  There still have to be boundaries.  Chances are good that if you are a caring guardian and are reading a magazine like this to learn to be better, your animal is already on the road to a charmed life.  So just start expressing and enjoying it more!!   But don’t forget boundaries and training.

 

1. Staying mad about an episode in the past.

 

This can create the never ending cycle of really bad behavior.  Animals pick up on the pictures words and feelings of their guardians very quickly.  When we hang on to an episode that infuriates us, unfortunately, we are creating a billboard for them to replicate the behavior.  They are not necessarily picking up on our feelings about the event; they just see the instant replay in our mind and think they need to do it again.  If your cat isn’t using the litter box and you’ve run blood work and you’re quite sure the problem is behavioral, rather than to cling to the image, try to sort out what they are ‘pissed off’ about while at the same time, picture them using the litter box.  I know this is difficult but you can’t let your mind slip – not even at work.  Forgive the behavior and send the picture you want.

 

 

 

1. Being fearful of how the animal will behave.

 

Again, this is billboard material.  And when we get a little panicky about something – i.e. our dog gets leash aggressive and we don’t want to see any of the neighbors, unfortunately, we are setting them up not only in our mind but in our body language and the tone in our voice.  At this point the time and money spent on a good dog trainer is worth its weight in gold.  You can’t afford the fear and must remember, you are in charge – it is your home, in fact at that moment, you need to provide them with security.  Fake it until you make it down the road the first day and then call a dog trainer.

 

I am not pointing the finger at anyone.  Over the years I have made all of these mistakes with dogs, cats, horses, etc.  What I have found in life is there are no mistakes only lessons.  Our animal companions offer these so graciously!!

 

Joan Ranquet is an Animal Communicator, Speaker and Author of Communication with all Life, Revelations of an Animal Communicator published by Hay House. For more info, go to www.joanranquet.com.

 

Joan Ranquet
http://www.articlesbase.com/pets-articles/5-human-feelings-that-affect-our-pets-752468.html

Good consise info is hard to come by! Please help, thnx.

Evolution:
http://chem.tufts.edu/science/evolution/HorseEvolution.htm
http://www.angelfire.com/mi/dinosaurs/horse.html
http://www.equiworld.net/uk/horsecare/evolution/history.htm

Domestication:
http://www.equiworld.net/uk/horsecare/evolution/domestication.htm
http://www.imh.org/imh/kyhpl1b.html
http://animals.about.com/od/hoofedmammals/a/domesticationof.htm

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I am an actor researching a role as a veterinarian.

Can someone please tell me how horse tranquilizers are administered?
Shot or pill?

If as a pill, how many mgs? What size is the pill? What color?
How big is it? (Is there any common, everyday food or candy that could look like it?)

How is it packaged? In a bottle (brown?) with other pills? Or is it blister sealed like common cold medicines?

Any help you could give would be greatly appreciated.

Thanks!

Generally when a horse is tranquilized, the tranquilizer is given by an intravenous injection, usually right into the jugular vein of the neck. The most typical equine tranquilizers used are Rompun or Acepromazine ("Ace"), which can be administered intravaneously, intramuscularly, or subcutaneously.

I’ve owned horses for close on 30 years and have never known a horse to be given a tranquilizer or sedative orally. Generally, when you have a reason for tranquilizing a horse, you want the drug to work FAST, and orally-administered drugs are just going to work very fast.

The tranquilizer comes in the typical sealed vial that injectable medications come in, and is typically clear in color.

When it’s being administered by a vet, the vet usually injects it directly into the jugular vein. Someone restrains the horse while the vet raises the jugular vein in the deep throat groove horses have on their neck. You squeeze hard and can feel the vein, which is about the diameter of a pencil, come up. You insert the needle into the vein, withdrawing a little blood to make sure you’re in the vein, and then shoot the tranquilizer in. Then you wait for it to take effect, as evidenced by the horse’s head drooping, getting relaxed, etc.

This website has some information that may help you:

http://compepid.tuskegee.edu/syllabi/clinical/large/clinical/chapter3.html

One of the craziest things I ever saw happen with a horse being tranquilized was when a vet student at Texas A&M accidentally shot the tranquilizer into the carotid artery rather than the jugular vein on a yearling colt they were going to geld. Within seconds of administering the shot, the horse dropped to his knees and went down with convulsions!!!! You ain’t seen nothin’ until you’ve seen a nearly 1,000-pound horse on the ground thrashing in convulsions. Man, we thought we’d lost the poor guy.

Fortunately he recovered, but that was really scary.

You might administer a tranquilizer intramuscularly or subcutaneously if you didn’t need it to act fast, but in most cases you’re going to give it IV because you want it to act fast so you can do what you need to do to the horse quickly.

Hope this helps.

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Go to this website:

http://www.horsekeeping.com/horse-training-care-info.htm

There is a TON of info and it is easy to understand!

Happy reading!

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i plan on being a vet! so all the info will help!

There are a myriad of things to learn about, all are important in one aspect or another. It’s impossible to list them all, but here’s only a few:

*Feeds. Grains, hays, supplements, vitamins, etc. Also learn how to determine what a specific horse needs to be healthy.

*Hooves and shoes. No foot, no horse.

*Musculoskeletal system. Bones, joints, tendons, ligaments, the works.

*Drugs. The good, the bad, the reactions. From Acepromazine to Dermosan to Ketoprofen and everything in between. The common ones, the illegal ones.

* Know that all horses are different. They have personalities, just like people. You cannot always gauge the severity of a problem by a horses reaction. I’ve seen horses pull up lame from a fly bite, but I’ve also seen one with massive muscle damage blood loss in the leg that quietly got into the emergency vet’s trailer.

Ugh, there’s so much to learn. Don’t ever stop learning–you will never know everything. The best veterinarians learn something new every day.

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im looking for any info available on what ive heard called either a Horse facts Guide Amazon’;return true;” onmouseout=”self.status=””>horse power or a horse drive. basically the horse walks around in a circle which turns some gears and powers some kind of implement. im looking for any books, websites, anything to do with them and also where i can find them to buy them. thanks alot.

Just about every state has a draft horse and mule association that can point you in the right direction to acquire what you are looking for…here is one source:http://www.joe.org/joe/2004october/rb8.shtml

Every year these organizations get together and have old time threshings, just to preserve the history so if you check with any of them, you will find what you are looking for..good luck.

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DO NOT give me links to websites. Just give me a list of what I need when getting a horse (brushes, combs, shampoos, etc)

Are you riding this horse?
Headstall, reins, bit, saddle, saddle pad, and any other accesories you might find you need like a martingale, flash noseband, or breast collar.

General Grooming:
A wide range of brushes with different types of bristles, a horse shampoo and conditioner of your choice, fly spray.

General Maintenance:
Halter, lead rope, a shed/barn/stable, hoof pick, shoes if your horse requires them, whatever feed your horse requires (weight maintenance, sweet feed, hay, ect.)

Too many things to list, but this is what I can think of right now.

EDIT: I’ve remembered some more now–

A bucket for feed and a trough for water, a lunge rope and a lunge whip.

If you’re getting into specifics, you need about 2 acres per horse, and horse or goat fencing; even though barbed wire is used it is not as "horse-safe."

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